How to make shoes fast and easy

Thank you to Karen Welch for providing these instructions on making shoes.

When you are not a cobbler, the easiest way to make a pair of special shoes to match an outfit is to start with a pre-made shoe one size larger than the doll normally wears ( I use these especially for antique reproductions when I am in a pinch for time). Remove the sole carefully and open the seam of the upper shoe at the center back. Now you have a pattern.

Cut the fabric or leather you are using for your new shoe using this pattern, and also cut two like pieces of your lining material.

Use the sole from the original shoe for a pattern, and cut two of cardboard for the inside lining of the shoe, trimming about 1/8” off the edges all the way around.
Cut 2 more of leather for the outer soles and 2 of cardboard to match. Cut these soles from leather that is heavier than your upper shoe leather (or if you do not have any, use the soles from the original shoe) no need to cover.

Cover one side of the cardboard liner sole in fabric. (I use pinking sheers to cut this out so that it looks finished inside and does not ravel….make sure you have opposite soles covered…I have completed mine and looked down to find I had 2 left feet!!!

Sew the top edge of the shoe lining to the top edge of the shoe outer fabric, trim seam, press with iron if it is fabric, bone folder if it is leather, but lay that seam open please. I use the stitch in the ditch method sewing right into the seam line to encourage the lining fabric to turn under and not show on the outside.
Match the seams (the one you just made) at the shoe back and sew one seam to close the back of the shoe fabric. With right sides together, sew the outside fabric together, sew through the seam you made to attach the two and continue through the lining fabric.

Trim seam, fold wrong sides together. Trim the lining fabric around the bottom where it will attach to the shoe sole with pinking shears to remove some of the bulk when folding it under the cardboard sole. Sew a basting stitch that will attach the lining to this outer edge of the shoe.

Here’s the part that makes the fit easy. Glue the innersole or the lining for the bottom of the shoe to the cardboard sole that you cut. MAKE SURE you leave yourself a right and left shoe!!! Use tape and tape the right sole to the dolls right foot and left to left.

Take the fabric/leather upper and slide it over the foot of the doll and position it in the correct position, where you want it to be permanently. I use a tad bit of tape here too so that it won’t move. AND this is just package tape nothing heavy please! Now with the fabric placed over the cardboard sole find center front and make sure you placed them both just where they should be. Adjust that if necessary.

Beginning at the center front…you have to clip into the fabric/leather to get it to fit right (you can cut tiny wedges out), begin pulling and hand gathering the upper to fit over the foot and onto the sole. GLUE is your friend here and fast drying glue is your best friend. Aileen’s Tacky in the purple tube is my choice.

You need to work that fabric onto the sole with no pleats showing but pull the fullness so that it is smooth. Work all of the toe area and when this is done the rest of the shoe should fit onto the sole with little or no trouble. Let this dry. I use small clothespins here to help because you need three hands!!

Once that is dry, glue the outer sole you cut from leather (or the original sole if you have decided to use it) on the shoe over the shoe fabric and over that cardboard sole. Trim fabric as needed so that this is a smooth finish. Again use those clothespins to be your helper. Let them dry really well!

The reason you use a size larger is because those machine made shoes have the benefit of not as much bulk as this method provides with the added sole and linings.

It isn’t necessary to line the shoe if you are making it from leather, but stitching around the straps and top edges of the shoe will give it a more professional look. It is easiest to do this stitching after drawing the pattern of the back side of your leather, but before you cut the pieces out. (Many doll makers suggest using buttonhole thread on your bobbin when doing this stitching as it adds a little extra class to the finished product.)

Add final outer touches such as bows, jewels, etc., and you have a “designer” shoe!

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